![]() ![]() It’s telling that regulars persevere tour groups and snaking lines (80 minutes, ugh) for lox rippled with fat, plus bagels with a joyfully seedy, near-uniform crunch. These days, David Wilpon, nephew of co-founder Florence Wilpon, presides over the brand, to near-constant crowds. With its pressed ceilings and weirdo chandeliers, Ess-a-Bagel is a rare place that keeps chopped liver and lake sturgeon on offer. They look sweet and doughy, but aren’t either, so experts tend to let it slide. A standard-issue Ess-a-Bagel tends to be inflated to the point of obscuring the hole. The origins of one of Manhattan’s most venerated shops trace to 1976, after co-owner Aaron Wenzelberg lost the lease of his Brooklyn doughnut shop and regrouped on the East Side. ![]() It may have more in common with something like tong yod, a yolky Thai sweet, than a bagel, but it’s still a must-order.Ģ35 W. The egg variety is buoyant, even orblike. While other places imbue an assembly-line sameness to their repertoire, Thongkrieng’s bagels seem to have distinct personalities. In a nod to Thongkrieng’s heritage, they order Thai iced tea over coffee, and while some opt for the cream cheeses in goofy throwbacks like pimento-olive, most get the fat-dappled salmon or smoky whitefish. Regulars consider Absolute’s overhead ductwork and general grime as points of pride. Beneath the topcoat of seeds and salt on any given variety - mini-bagels shine here, too - there’s a blistery crust with old-school verisimilitude in spades, a given thanks to owner Sam Thongkrieng’s early work at Ess-a-Bagel. What more can be said about Absolute Bagels, beyond its succinct logline here as being a “filthy little store with sublime bagels” and the requisite mention that it’s nabbed just about every accolade of bagel-worthiness in its 27 years of business? For starters, standbys like sesame and chewy onion have dapper, almost pinwheeled crusts. Miniature versions are also available, and it’s worth getting a sampler of each kind. The result is smooth-mantled bagels with plenty of crackle that come in twisty wreaths, an undervalued metric for spotting the real thing in the wild. Workers at the 36-year-old Queens institution ply dough into loose, ropy circles, which get an extra-long rest and leisurely ferment before a kettle dip and a flip on the boards. ![]() Try the brown-and-yellow brindled egg-everything or the lopsided and nicely chewy plain or the fantastically roasted, tangy-surfaced salt flavor, which has a perfect ratio of buttery and astringent and is what a soft New York pretzel wishes it could be. Inside, purists may as well put on blinders in the presence of shaggy, coconut-festooned piña-colada bagels. Taxes, fees not included for deals content.19-09 Utopia Pkwy., at 19th Ave., Whitestone 71įrom the outside, the mini–shopping center looks like a place to score discount Venetian blinds. If you have any questions or suggestions regarding this matter, you are welcome to contact our customer support team.Ĭ is not a booking agent, and does not charge any service fees to users of our site.Ĭ is not responsible for content on external web sites. The brand names, logos, images and texts are the property of these third parties and their respective owners. cannot be held responsible or liable for the accuracy, correctness, usefulness or reliability of the data. The content displayed in the Directory consists of information from third parties, among others from publicly accessible sources, or from customers, who have a presentation page in our directory. © 2023 All Rights reserved.Īt our purpose is to help people find great local businesses like dentists, hair stylists, restaurants, bars, hotels, local businesses.
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